Taking care of your engine alternator ~ Auto Review

Thursday, October 13, 2011

Taking care of your engine alternator

We hardly give a thought to the candle. All it does is supply a gap in which a jump of ignition. But when you consider the work environment, the plug certainly deserves respect. The nose of the insulator surrounding the center electrode must operate between 350 and 700 degrees C. too low a temperature will cause the accumulation of carbon, like carbon is a good conductor, it is not wanted there.

Conversely, if the temperature is too high, the pre-ignition is likely. We can get an idea of ​​how a decision by examining it immediately after a race full power. If the nose is clean, white insulator, it is running too hot, so black, so cool. The ideal color is light brown. Use only the recommended plugs for your vehicle.

Charging systems have changed. At one point we had a magneto and dynamo. But as the demand for electricity has increased, the system was inadequate. The battery starting handles, lighting, signage and lighting, and finally all became too much for the configuration of the battery / alternator and dynamo appeared.

Contrary to the dynamo, even at idle the alternator is charging the battery which is certainly a boon when you're stuck in traffic for any length of time. The electronic controller also plays a role because it controls the output better than the dynamo and allows the use of maintenance-free batteries. The alternator is not as heavy as a dynamo, has a longer life and requires less maintenance.

Alternators require occasional check on the rings of dirt and brush wear. When a fault occurs, examine the wires for splits and damage and all connections. Check the drive belt for signs of slippage. Check the charging, if the breath of the alternator can not begin to load. Battery charge, look for cells too gassing or corrosion of the terminal.

For the basic tests that you will need a moving coil voltmeter (0-20V or 0-40V for the 24V system). Add a hydrometer, plus a high and low range ohmmeter and a moving coil DC ammeter (10-0-100A).

Attention, a thermostatically controlled fan can start turning even if the ignition is off. Before connecting / disconnecting the main generator leads disconnect the ground wire from the battery - and do not forget to contact before connecting / disconnecting any vehicle.

Connect a voltmeter 0-20V to the battery terminals and then pass on all charges except for the windshield wipers can scratch the screen because sec. Run the engine at 3000rpm for three minutes. Provided that the battery is OK, it should show 13.5V after a minute or two. If not, suspect the alternator.

Rotor slip ring brushes can stick to their owners, to clean and ensure free movement. Minimum length of the brush varies from system to system, so check the manual. Battery connections loose or corroded or a poor ground can cause the failure of diodes, as can be, even temporary connection of the battery in reverse. Note that disconnecting the alternator or the battery while the engine is running will also cause a failure.

Parts that can fail in an alternator is the power pack and diodes in the field, rotor and stator windings, brushes and bearings. When the alternator is more than a few years, I think, rather than messing around with individual parts, it is better and get a reconditioned unit with a warranty.

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